Mustang V8 (S550 & S650) Ultimate Tuning Guide

If you are looking for tuning info for your Coyote V8 equipped Mustang, then you have come to the right place! This is part 2 of our power guide (part one is here) and here we will be addressing further changes and also Forced Induction, aka the glorious world of high power via Superchargers or Turbo chargers.

To start with let's keep it simple. The most common method to give your Mustang a BIG old bump in power numbers, and what we in Steeda UK generally recommend is a Whipple twin screw supercharger. This applies to both the 2015-2023 S550 Mustangs GT, including the Bullitt and Mach 1 and also the S650 GT and Dark Horse. Its what we use for our Q850 StreetFighter and the supercharged version of the Steeda Steve McQueen Limited Edition Bullitt.

Below: 3.0 Whipple Twin Screw custom finished in Highland Green for a Bullitt Install.

However, that is clearly not the only option. Even staying with just Superchargers there are other versions out there from other suppliers, and these come in different flavours too.

So here is a little run down of the main options:

Type	Examples	Pros	Cons	Best For
Roots	Roush / Ford Performance	Instant torque, linear power delivery	Higher parasitic loss, louder	Street, drag, daily driving
Centrifugal	Vortech, Paxton	High-RPM power, efficient, quieter	Lag at low RPM, needs revs	Road course, Drag Strip high-RPM applications
Twin-Screw	Whipple, KenneBell	Strong mid-range and instant pickup	More complex, expensive	All-around performance, daily driver

The 2 most common options are the Roots style blower and the twin screw, like Whipple or KenneBell, which sound similar but have a key difference.

A roots supercharger uses two screws to pump air into the engine. These are like the Ford Performance and Roush blowers and used on the GT500 for example. They are cheaper to build, simple, and effective. However they are not overly efficient and can be noisy. The screws are linear, hence easy to make.

A twin screw (wait they both have two screws!?) uses the same basic idea of two metal helical screws in a box to pump air into the engine, but adds a layer of complexity by making the screws NOT the same, and using the screws to ALSO compress the air as well as pumping it, allowing it to force more air into the engine, BUT also adding complexity to the engineering AND requiring more cooling from an intercooler, as compressed air becomes hot air!

A centrifugal supercharger is effectively a turbo charger snail like design, but driven via the engine rather than via exhaust gas like a normal turbo charger. This is usually smaller, lighter and more simple, but due to the load on the engine to power it is usually at its most effective and efficient only once higher RPMs are reached, and so can be more laggy in street use.

Which Should You Choose?

As we said above, for us we love the Whipple twin screw package for its effective instant pickup and linear NA feel, so driveability stays the same, but you just have way more power. They tune for EU cars, and offer a complete plug and play package and look awesome too.

But every kit has its place, which is why so many options are out there.. its for you to decide!

For us the one must have upgrade for a Whipple order is the 10 Rib belt, which is the main drive belt of the system. The standard Whipple kits come with a 6 rib belt, but we find that not only does the 10 rib look much cooler (haha, you know its a factor!) but also in terms of practicality, it's less prone to slipping or snapping and that will help prevent over tightening as well.

In terms of what to order we generally say keep it simple and keep it safe and effective. The best starting point, especially for 2018+ cars with the GPF (Gas Particulate Filter) in the headers / exhaust manifold is a stage 1 kit. We recommend the 10 rib as above, and the only other choice for a basic kit is do you want it black (standard) or a custom finish, like red or yellow or highland green as above?

Below: Whipple 10 Rib Belt installed

Now all the above was just about superchargers, what about the speedy snails, AKA the spooly bois, AKA turbskis, AKA turbos? Well the good news is Hellion have got you! Their twin turbo kits offer ready to go setups for the Mustang and have you covered if you want something a bit different. They too come with everything you need and even have Right Hand Drive versions available for UK or Cyprus installs? Tuning however might need to be custom done. You can read more about Hellion here:

Below: The Hellion twin turbo "Sleeper" install keeps turbos hidden down low....

Must-Have Supporting Mods for Forced Induction? Do you NEED supporting mods while installing forced induction?

OK You have made the decision. Your bone stock Mustang is going to get the power boost of your dreams and you have decided on the FI kit of your choice. What else do you need or might you need?

Well for starters we say that ANY big increase in power requires a Steeda "Stop the Hop" kit. The stock Mustang rear end can barely put down the 400 hp it comes with from the factory and already suffers from wheel hop and imprecise handling. Now stick 600+ hp through it and the problem goes off the charts. So don't make your first boosted outing end in tears in a hedge or with a wheel and suspension smashed by an unplanned meeting with the kerb. Fit the Steeda Stop the Hop kit. It's a MUST.

S550 2015-2023 Stop the Hop
S650 2024+ Stop the Hop:

So what else?

Now the answer is back to our old friend; "it depends"....

Oil Pump Gears and the Crank Sprocket

Racing or heavy duty use plus Forced Induction really stresses your engine, so supporting mods aren’t optional—they’re essential. BUT if you are just using your car for road going daily driving fun then maybe its more a case of "peace of mind" than an absolutely essential mod.

The Coyote is a fantastically built engine and its built for tuning and boost, but there are two very well known weak points. The Crank Sprocket & Oil Pump Gear (OPG)

Why? The stock crank sprocket and oil pump gear are weak points as they are made from powdered metal, and can fail in high stress situations.

What Happens If You Skip It? Well maybe nothing! But if you are really pushing hard regularly then the more likely something happening is......and if the Crank Sprocket or Oil Pump Gears fail, then the results can be devastating: no one's friend: Catastrophic engine failure. 8(

The solution: Upgrade to a billet steel crank sprocket and oil pump gear

Below: Boundary Billet Oil Pump Gears

These are fairly simple to upgrade and install when fitting a charger and only require the front plate to come off. You can even upgrade your chain runners to billet instead of plastic if you want to go all out.

Again as we say: For severe use, the upgrade to billet OPG and sprocket is a must. For daily driver fun then its more a "peace of mind" consideration. You will generally be OK without it, but its up to you. For one, will you be happy pushing the go pedal, or will you have a worry permanently in the back of your mind stopping you really enjoying things?

Fuelling Upgrades?

These usually come with your kits but if you are looking to push for higher numbers then consistent fuelling is a must. You need to make sure your injectors are big enough, and your fuel pump can push enough go juice to keep everything happy. Also if you are going on track, you might want a surge tank to keep the fuel going even in high g turns..... ask me how I know!

Cooling Upgrades?

Again this depends on use. In most cases for a daily driver, then you will be OK with what comes on the car and the kit, especially if you have a Mach 1 or Dark Horse with enhanced cooling features.

BUT if you are in a hot climate or look to push more or want to get some track time in then cooling options suddenly become a LOT more important. Whipple offer a Heavy Duty fan and cooler option and Ford Performance offer an uprated oil pan from the GT500, while the PPE transmission pans for the A10 automatic gearbox could be a good option too.

Ford Performance also offer an uprated Water Pump kit to boost pump flow by 30% to keep your coolant working.

if you dont have a Mach 1 or Dark Horse and want to get a car on track then a Steeda diff cooler kit could be a great idea.

Remember, Power is cool, but cool power is cooler.

Power is Up! But is power down?

We've already mentioned grip above with the Steeda Stop the Hop kit, but we want to double down here. If you really boost your power, then you need to be able to put it down, unless you are happy just boasting about your dyno numbers online and at your local meet. That means good quality rubber and a lot of it! We love Michelin and recommend using the Pilot Sport 4S in a wider than OEM fitment or even the Cup two if you are serious about on track performance. Or a drag slick if that's more your thing!

Below: Stock OEM Rear 275/40/19 vs Michelin 305/35/20.....

It doesn't just give you grip, those fat rears look awesome too!

To fit these black bands of grip then you will need some nice wheels and we can happily recommend 19" or 20" Velgen wheels or Steeda Tridents / Mulholland wheels. Usually fitted in 10" wide front and 11" wide rears for maximum tyre choice. You can easily go upto a 315 in the rear.

Below Velgen VF5 20" wheels with Michelins fitted

Browse the wheels selection here

Remember what they say, spinning isn't winning! So make sure your wheels and tyres can deliver your new found power to the road, or you have just wasted your money!

Other Drivetrain Upgrades?

Stock driveshaft/ half shafts can equal time bombs under serious power especially in a drag strip setting where drivetrain shock under serious and repeated launches can be a real issue. Especially the OEM half shafts (that connect the diff to the rear wheels). You can upgrade with either GT350 half shafts which are cheap and stronger than OEM for a simple "peace of mind upgrade", but if you are really sending it on the drag strip, and have grippy tyres etc, then the shock that can be transmitted by an effective hook up will overwhelm the GT350 shafts and you should opt for the Ford Performance "High Power" shafts rated for 2000 hp!

A pair of Ford Racing S550 Mustang half shaft upgrade kits with blue and black coloring and visible branding.

other upgrades to Consider:

1-Piece Aluminium Driveshaft ( Lighter, stronger, and eliminates vibrations with one piece design. Carbon driveshafts can also act as a shock absorber but can be considerably more expensive.

Differential Upgrades like the Wavetracs we offer – These give better power delivery and durability.

If you are really blasting the drag strip we recommend toughening up and securing the entre drivetrain with a Steeda driveshaft safety loop and enhanced diff bolts.

Of course launches and power can cause clutch problems too, so while your OM clutch can usually pass muster for a while, it wont be too long when you either want to upgrade or HAVE to upgrade, especially if you are using the car hard. We have Extreme twin plate clutches available here: Think about it this way, is it best to upgrade in advance on your own terms (a good idea for a winter project upgrade), or be left stranded at a track or drag strip with a blown clutch and needing a tow home?

What about Engine Internals?

Stock Coyote internals (already forged in the Dark Horse Coyote engine) can handle lets say 600–850 hp, but beyond that, you’ll need to think bigger, especially if shooting for 3 figures or using the car hard... But really that's beyond what we are discussing here. What you might think about:

Forged pistons (e.g., Manley, JE)

Forged connecting rods (e.g., Manley, Eagle)

Upgraded head studs (e.g., ARP).

Pro Tips from Steeda Europe

Start with a solid tune – One reason we love Whipple is their pre-packaged tunes. But a custom dyno tune will be needed to support anything above a fully bone stock Whipple install; for example, adding headers.

Final Thoughts: Which Path Will You Take?

Forced induction transforms your Coyote Mustang from quick to possibly downright terrifying. Your go pedal will become something to be respected and not just mashed to the ground willy-nilly..... Whether you’re daily driving a Whipple-blown GT or building a drag strip monster with a Vortech, the key is matching your supercharger to your goals—and backing it up with the right mods. And then respecting that pedal!

Bear in mind that if you want to build a serious track day car for race circuits, then we strongly recommend staying normally aspirated. The power sounds great, but cooling issues plus the added weight can often destroy your fun before it even begins! We advise staying NA and focussing on handling, grip and braking, a good seating position and possibly some weight reduction, with a nice tune giving over 500hp. You will still have enormous fun and be able to generate enormous speed!

So, what’s your move? If you arent sure or want further advice or to make a plan for your build then CONTACT US now and we will be glad to help!

Mustang V8 (S550 & S650) Ultimate Tuning Guide - "Mo Power Babeh!" Part 2 - Forced Induction and more

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